CategoriesSkin Care

Acne-prone, pimples, bad skin, breakouts, etc.

I’ve suffered from embarrassing acne flare-ups since I was 15 years old. Over the years I tried nearly every product marketed towards blemished-faced kids, young adults, and then, ultimately, those that claim to treat both fine lines, wrinkles, and acne, all in one.  Nothing ever truly worked – and it wasn’t until I was in my mid-30’s, still agonizing over spot after spot that I decided to abandon everything I’d been told, and try ‘alternative’ treatments, aka – non-toxic products, and take a deeper look at my diet… you know, real wild and outlandish, counter-culture stuff.

Eureka! I started seeing a difference. I tried living without dairy and saw an immediate decrease in my outbreaks. Sugar was much more difficult for me to cut out, but when I did, I saw a marked change. I played around with different herbs, acupuncture, and treating my blemishes with oil, instead of harsh drying toners and lotions, and my little daily outbreaks – as well as the intensely painful monthly ones – diminished.

One day I tweeted an SOS to the green beauty industry. Someone had to be able to help me understand and treat the outbreaks that were still happening. I hadn’t quite gotten it thoroughly under control – and it only made it worse that I was a makeup artist who felt the need to try every face oil and cream that was sent to me. My skin was confused and so was I.

Much to my amazement, I received the most kind response from a well-established aesthetician, Marie Veronique Nadeau. She, along with her physicist and bio-medical engineer-trained daughter, Jay, had created a family of skincare products, with one line focusing solely on healing and treating acne the all-natural way. We had an hour long phone call and the next day she sent me a care package. I was hooked.

Below you’ll find the first part of a series I’ll run on this blog, written by the very intelligent Marie Veronique, offering all of the great  info she first shared with me. It’s some pretty heady stuff, so please do as I did, and reread it a few times if you suffer from acne.  It’s the framework from which I came to understand that I’d been treating my skin incorrectly throughout the years. We are complicated organisms, and all of our many parts play a role in the health of our skin.  In my next post, I’ll share with you Marie Veronique’s top do’s and dont’s for treating your acne.

The Human Skin Microbiome and Acne: Part One 

Probably most of us remember being in elementary school and writing addresses that anchored our place in the perplexing cosmological vastness with some variant of: name, street address, city, state, country, continent, planet, solar system, galaxy, universe. Now we have expanded our anthropocentric worldview microscopically as well as cosmically. It turns out we are our microbes to a greater extent than we are our human cells—in fact microscopic life forms outnumber our own cells by about 10 to 1.

This has huge implications for skin owners. Skin is one of the human body’s major ecosystems, home to a vast number of assorted microorganisms. It’s 1.8 square meters of diverse habitats populated by bacteria, viruses, fungi—and even mites. The skin is home to one trillion or 1012 microbes, of 1000 or so different species.

Hosting all this teeming life is a huge responsibility when you come to think of it, but being human we take it for granted—until something goes wrong. As long as our mostly mutualistic microorganisms are protecting us against invasion by more pathogenic organisms, we can go about our business. But at the first sign of something amiss like acne vulgaris, adult acne or rosacea, we’re there with the big guns—quite prepared to nuke the dermal landscape. Our weapons: antimicrobials like triclosan or benzoyl peroxide or antibiotics like clindamycin, doxycycline, erythromycin or tetracycline.

Now that we know antibiotics can disrupt the gut microbiome to the detriment of our health, we’re ready to take a seriously different approach to using antibiotics. We use them only when absolutely necessary. Meanwhile, we can add probiotics and prebiotics to our diet to help keep microbiota populations in balance.

It’s time we exercised the same caution with our skin microbiome, and for the same reason. By massacring every microorganism in the landscape—good, bad or indifferent—we disrupt the balance of the skin’s microflora. The ultimate outcome makes things worse rather than better, at least in the long term. We may not know as much about skin flora as we know about the gut, but there’s sufficient evidence to suggest that effective alternatives to treating common skin conditions like acne do exist. These are peaceful solutions that work without committing mass slaughter or doing long-term damage to your skin’s ecosystem. The trillion-plus microorganisms inhabiting each individual’s skin want it to thrive, and we humans who share it with them do too. Indeed, acne may be a kind of distress signal sent out by a committee of microbes to alert us to something not quite right. Let’s see if we can respond in a way that satisfies everyone. Just imagine—some of our simple solutions may end up improving trillions of lives. And make us humans happier in the bargain.

CategoriesSkin Care

Make your skin glow like crazy

I usually want to go all-out on the makeup when it comes to Amber Heard. Her face is a makeup artists dream come true; she looks great in a smokey eye, an intense brow, and a serious lip. Last night, however, she said to me: ‘I really want to look super natural for the [Jimmy Kimmel] show tonight, and most importantly, I want my skin to glow.’

Glowing skin is my forte (sometimes I think I should carry powder in my kit), so I was stoked for this request. Here’s a breakdown of how you can recreate this glow on yourself. Keep in mind, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this level of glow intensity as an every day look for everyone, but it’s definitely a show-stopper.

  1. Start with a clean face.
  2. Enjoy a hearty mist of RL Linden Thousand Petals Mist all over face, neck, and decollate
  3. 3-4 few drops of Jenette Skincare Facial Oil (let this sit for a few minutes)
  4. 8 drops of Marie Veronique Organics Healing Facial Oil
  5. A light pressing of Tammy Fender’s Intensive Repair Balm along the highlights of the face
  6. Because oils have different viscosities (levels of heaviness/thickness), it’s important to know what’s in your face oil. For a request like this, I’ll often layer a lighter oil under a heavier, and finish by sealing it in with a moisturizer.

For most of us, a heavy application of oils and moisturizers every day isn’t what our skin needs, so remember: this intensity of product usage is only for special occasions!

I let the moisture sit for at least 5 minutes (sometimes 15!) before I start in with makeup.

Because Amber’s skin is impeccably clear, and even-toned (lucky dog!) I used a brush to apply the smallest amount of liquid foundation from Vapour Organic Beauty along her t-zone (this foundation is VERY dewey!), and a yet-to-be-released under eye concealer from w3LL People (stay tuned – it’s great).

Focusing again on the highlights, I used my fingers to press a bit of Vapour Organic Beauty’s new glowy stick along her cheekbones, the bridge of her nose, and even though for some of you, it may have looked a bit over-the-top luminescent, along her temples and into her forehead (I like a glow there, but I know some of you who don’t).

Historically, television makeup has been matte, and is generally super powder-heavy, which makes sense because depending on the lighting and the type of camera used, shiny-ness can be distracting and come across as looking oily. It’s up to us makeup artists to determine just how much glow is appropriate, and hope that what looks good in dressing room lighting looks just as good on stage!

The beauty of a woman is not in a facial mode but the true beauty in a woman is reflected in her soul. It is the caring that she lovingly gives the passion that she shows. The beauty of a woman grows with the passing years.

(side note: one of the other guests on the show came into Amber’s dressing room to say hello. It was comical for me to see how much white powder had been put on his face. He looked like a ghost in person! When they hugged and kissed hello I feared some of it would come off on her cheek. It didn’t, and when I saw him on the show his skin looked great. I have a lot of respect for you television and movie makeup artists. It’s a totally different ball game!)

CategoriesMakeup

Pretty makeup, that’s what they want

‘I want my makeup to feel light, look glowy and sheer, and basically, just make me look like the best version of myself’.

Unless I’m doing makeup for an editorial, 90% of the time this is what I hear from the person I’m about to make up.  It’s come to be my favorite kind of makeup look to create, in large part because I love watching my clients reaction when I’m finished. Who doesn’t like to make people feel good about themselves? It may be a superficial ‘feel good’ at first, but it seeps in. I watch moods change, frown lines soften, and interactions with others become lighter and more at ease.  Makeup really is transformative, and it doesn’t need to be heavy anywhere on your face, contrary to the heavy eye and brow makeup and pancake face with highlights and lowlights and contour and strobe trend that just won’t seem to go away.

This is what I used for this light and glowing makeup on the beautiful Anna-Christina Schwartz:

Skin:

May Lindstrom Jasmine Garden Facial Mist– the scent is incredible and I use it as much for the aromatherapy for myself, as I do for my clients.

Biossance ‘The Revitalizer’ – a super light squalene moisturizer that’s good for all skin types.

Kjaer Weis Foundation – I use a fluffy eyeshadow brush to gently buff the cream into skin – the smallest amount around her nose, on her forehead, and around her eyes, patting it in with a damp beauty blender.

RMS Living Luminizer – not a surprise, I love to use this coconut oil based highlighter on the cheekbones, along the bridge of the nose, and the cupids bow.

Eyes:

I lined her eyes gently with cream shadow sticks from Ilia Beauty, in a gold/brown called ‘Age of Consent’, and a bit more heavily with ‘You Spin Me Round’ – a dark gray/black shade. I blended them in with a cotton swab so they melted into the lash line – both top and bottom.

Ilia Polka Dots and Moonbeams luminizer – I press this more dense, less emollient (than the living luminizer from RMS) highlighter into the inner corner of eyes to draw attention and make eyes dazzle even more.